Introduction

Olive pythons can grow up to 6m in length, making them one of Australia’s largest pythons. They originate from the very north of Western Australia, the Northern Territory and Queensland. There is also a subspecies, L. o. barroni, which lives in the Pilbara region of Western Australia. Olive pythons prefer dry and rocky habitats which match their colouring of olive through to dark brown, with a pale or white underside.

Housing

Olive Pythons are best housed separately, except when breeding. Hatchlings can be kept in small lunchbox size tubs as long as several suitable hides, a clean freshwater source, appropriate heating, and a climbing branch are provided.

Subadult or adult olive pythons can be adequately housed indoors in a ventilated vivarium which must be secure and escape-proof. The length of the enclosure is more important than the height, given that this species is primarily terrestrial (land dwellers). Wire fronted vivariums are unsuitable for snakes. The vivarium must be adequately ventilated, and any build-up of condensation could indicate damp conditions, poor ventilation, or both. Appropriate measures should be undertaken to avoid such situations that can predispose them to a wide range of medical problems.

Captive Environment

Vivarium furnishings should be kept simple, with no sharp edges or points. A few appropriate hides should be constructed so you can access the snake at any time. Try not to clutter up the vivarium so as to allow plenty of room for the snake to move around and exercise. The floor covering or substrate should be easily removable for cleaning. Some options are newspaper, paper towel, recycled paper cat litter, sand, woodchips, and indoor/outdoor carpet. Each of the substrates has their own individual pros and cons associated with its use:

• Newspaper is cheap, clean, and easy to change, however it doesn’t look as aesthetically pleasing as some of the other substrate options. 
• Sand and recycled paper cat litter generally look nicer, however carry severe risks if the snake accidentally ingests any of the substrate.

Several hide boxes or rock crevices and low branches should be provided to allow the snake to retreat and to thermoregulate their own temperature at different points of the cage. Avoid the use of adhesive tape inside the vivarium, as this can come loose and pose a risk to your snake.

Temperature and Lighting

Like other snakes and reptiles, the olive python requires both UVA and UVB lighting, which should be replaced every 6-9 months. During the summer months, the light should be switched on for roughly 12 hours each day. During the winter months, the amount of daylight can be reduced to 10 hours a day. A temperature gradient should always be provided by placing a heating lamp at one side of the vivarium, ensuring the snake cannot physically reach the lamp and get burnt. The basking spot should reach 35°C, while the cool end should be maintained at around 25°C. The ambient temperature at the warm end of the cage at night should not drop lower than 20°C for any extended period. Heat mats within the enclosure and heat rocks are not recommended, as they often malfunction and lead to thermal burns.

Water

Fresh clean water should always be provided in a solid, spill-proof container and changed regularly.

Food

In captivity, olive pythons will eat mice, rats, rabbits, and chickens. Adults should be fed once every 2-3 weeks, while young pythons require weekly feedings, and juveniles can be offered food up to twice a week. Ensure frozen food is adequately thawed before being offered to a warm snake who is ready to feed.

Health Problems

Reptiles, in general, are very good at hiding their health problems until they become very serious. For this reason, it is very important that you get your snake checked over by an experienced reptile veterinarian every 6-12 months. Common problems where veterinary advice is recommended include mites, wheezing, dysecdysis (trouble shedding), prolonged problems with appetite outside of the cooler months of the year, lethargy, diarrhoea, abnormal faeces and regurgitation.